This week is Songkran, the Thai New Year. It is a week-long holiday traditionally filled with a nationwide water fight. All of those words are quite specific. It truly is nationwide, you can be driving through the middle of the jungle and some kid will be standing by the side of the road with a bucket of water, waiting for a car with open window to soak the driver. It is also a week long tradition. It is difficult to go outside for the entire holiday without getting fully drenched, so I typically leave.
This time I took the advice of a friend and went on a snorkeling tour of the Similan Islands in the Andaman Sea, the southwest part of Thailand. What a stunning trip.
On the first night, I stayed in a cheap little bungalow owned by the tour operator. It had an uncomfortable bed, no air conditioner, no shower, and this view:

Early the next morning, we hopped on the boat for the four hour ride out to the islands. It was a great opportunity to get to know the 20 other people on the tour. Turns out, it was the very end of the season, so a lot of the people on the tour worked for the company. There was a large family of Swedes, one of which was also a tour guide. There was also a Swedish couple about my age, one of whom was the receptionist. There was a couple of Danish tourists in their mid thirties and a once British now Aussie family with a couple of 9 year olds. Here is the Aussie dad and his son:

I do have advanced dive certification, so I can scuba if I wish. I deliberately chose not to for this trip. I typically find that diving involves far more prep and post work than I really want to do for a trip like this. Plus, my camera only really works to 10 meters.
With snorkeling, unlike diving, you can just jump in and out of the water any time you like, as many times as you like. There is no danger of the bends or nitrogen narcosis. We certainly took every advantage of this. We spent essentially all day every day in the water.
I went through an entire bottle of sunscreen plus some borrowed from others as the week wore on. Jump in, snorkel, get out, dry off, lotion up while moving to the next spot, jump in again.
Snorkeling with a camera takes practice. The light is generally low, so you need to be steady. This is difficult, because fish rarely sit still, the water moves you around, and you are holding your breath.
It wasn’t until the end of the first day when I finally figured out how to do this, starting with stationary fish. Here is a highly poisonous scorpionfish, taken at dusk:

After dinner, I went out with one of the Danes for a night dive. We found this sleeping parrotfish (the creepy looking thing):

And, most excitedly, this (also poisonous) lionfish:

I had seen a sea turtle on the first day, but it was very far away and fairly small. On the second day, we had a green turtle swim by us. In this case, he swam directly underneath me. Had I reached down, I could have grabbed on. Apparently this is a very bad thing to do.

Shortly after this, at the very next site, we found a critically endangered hawksbill turtle. Unfortunately, I made the horrible decision to not bring my camera on that trip. Someone else did get a great photo of me with the turtle, I just have to get it from him, he has my email address.
At some dive sites, we decided it was more fun to simply jump off the boat than to actually go snorkeling.

And we spent a bit of time just relaxing at pristine white sand beaches. Since the Andaman sea has no surf whatsoever, you can float in the very warm salt water just off the beach indefinitely. It is probably one of the most relaxing things on earth.

As the trip went on, I started to learn where and when I could find fish. Anemonefish were particularly difficult, as the reefs had been devastated by the tsunami back in 2004. We only saw a couple of anemone, but they did have anemonefish in them:

We were supposed to go to one more dive site on the second day. We were pulling into “Donald Duck Bay” when the boat suddenly turned around and powered out to sea. All of the other boats nearby did the same. Our guide came upstairs from the captains cabin and explained that there had been an earthquake nearby. We were going into deep water, where a tsunami wouldn’t be an issue. That was all he knew.
We didn’t have much else to do but swap horror stories about earthquakes and tsunamis. The Thai boat crew had all been here at the last tsunami, but none of the westerners had. One guy named Jimmy got to Thailand just a month afterwards and took part in the cleanup. His stories involved destroyed buildings, rubble, and dead bodies. Apparently he also has a scene in the upcoming movie about the tsunami. As a Californian I knew a bit about earthquakes, but nothing about tsunamis.

Eventually we found out that the earthquake was an 8.7, only a tiny bit weaker than the 9.0 of the one that caused the devastating tsunami earlier. The captains of all the nearby boats, including ours, were in constant contact. With a lack of any real information, this meant they were just sharing rumors and theories about the best places to put the boats. We went closer to shore (though always a kilometer or so out), further from shore, east of the island, and west of the island.
Eventually we heard that a tsunami had passed us, and that it was only 18 inches. Since the tide was out, the wave didn’t do anything notable whatsoever save for the panic and evacuation. In other words, it was a story creator. One that doesn’t involve rubble or bodies.
By the time the warning went from red to green, the sun had set. The next morning, we headed to the last dive site, Koh Bon. Koh Bon is the place to find manta rays, and we did find rays. Big ones.

Manta Rays are filter feeders, which means they only spend time in water murky with silt. This is great for them, but terrible for underwater visibility and photography.

They are such enormous creatures, slowly moving around the ocean, turning in big sweeping turns.

One actually turned directly towards me, giving me a nearly frighting look at its very very strange looking face.

And that was it, time to head home. One of my favorite vacations. Such a beautiful trip.
